Fanny Perrot

How decisive was your encounter with Olivier Alglave?

I learned everything from him in Megève: the rigour of French service, dining room cuts, silverware care, how to address guests, and above all, how to handle pressure and stress. Each act was supervised, everything was perfectly organised. And Olivier Alglave was very much concerned with passing down his knowledge: he trained us and, in exchange, demanded perfection.

It was hard both physically – many hours worked, intense fatigue – and psychologically – we were constantly pushing our limits. Despite it all, my passion for the job never faltered, quite the contrary in fact, and after a spell in the north of England to perfect my English, I returned to the 1920 restaurant at Les Chalets du Mont d’Arbois knowing exactly what to expect, and armed with warrior-like motivation! The great atmosphere within the team pushed me to always give my best and resist going down the path of old-fashioned management methods like a toxic competitive environment. That’s when I understood the need to do things differently, so as not to burn people out.

 So what are the keys to effective management?

I so deeply want to play a part in improving our trade. Young people are turning their back on the world of gastronomy for several reasons: intense working days, inadequate pay, and military-like – sometimes inhumane – working conditions. I believe one can implement a rigorous and precise approach without shouting, humiliating and harassing. A healthy, understanding environment, adapted to each individual’s personality, provides a much more effective and lasting balance. I believe nothing is more constructive than setting an example. This is what I found when I joined La Maison Bleue.

A strong network is vital in our business. Chef Julien Gasten introduced me to Yoann Conte’s establishment, an up-and-coming house. That’s how I joined the establishment as a head waiter for the summer, at the end of which the chef offered me a permanent contract, accommodation, a good salary and career prospects, all in a pleasant town and a family-run, humane establishment. I soon became assistant restaurant manager, then restaurant manager after a sudden departure. I did have my doubts; I felt I wasn’t ready for so much responsibility so quickly. My first briefing in front of 15 people was incredibly intimidating, but I knew the house well and Mrs Conte helped me through it. I gained confidence and, in the end, we made it. At the end of summer, I learned that Gault et Millau had named me their Young Restaurant Manager of the Year. I didn’t even know about this award, I was over the moon!

What do you think about the place of women in the world of gastronomy?

Women must make their own way and prove themselves more than men. We tend to favour discussion and exchange. This trade has always been open to women, but very difficult to access, mainly because of our modesty. That’s why it’s always been a male-dominated industry. But things are changing. In fact, at Yoann Conte’s, the staff is almost exclusively women. Every day, guests notice that and appreciate such a large female presence. Would they do so if there were only men? Overall, what you need most to succeed in this business is character and assertiveness.

 In your opinion, what challenges will restaurants face in the future?

Working time will become a primary concern. Coming out of the COVID crisis, the new generation is turning away from jobs that are too demanding. The salaries are not in line with the commitment required. At the end of the day, our trade is not valued as it should be, and it is slowly losing in attractiveness. A large number of fine-dining establishments in France are now short of staff. There are very few applicants and many unreliable people quit overnight. This is a major issue.

Where do you see yourself in a few years?

Maybe I’ll open my own place, a restaurant, tearoom or whatever. An establishment where everyone – my partner, Yoann Conte’s pastry chef, myself, the staff and the guests themselves – would just feel good? I would love that. I have plenty of ideas and dreams jostling in my head. And then, one day, I’ll have children… Combining family life and work, turning my passion into a pleasant daily activity, that’s my dream. I know it won’t be easy, but I hope I can manage because, fortunately, children are no longer the sole concern of women.