Linh Nguyen

Stimulating work, everyday

There is a kind of virtuous synergy that helps them keep on the move, surpass themselves, never get bored and learn something new every day. “Teamwork is the key to success. It’s amazing to work in such a close-knit, caring team.” That’s true not only for the restaurant, but also for the producers with whom Linh works hand in hand, tirelessly, to always offer the best seasonal products. Indeed, quality is the highest priority. “No day is the same. I meet many different people and I love it!” And last but not least, there are the guests, at the heart of all the attention. They are the ones Linh and the entire team strive to please. It’s important to listen to guests, tempt them, and even push them out of their comfort zone: “We had to be patient and quite persistent to explain the reasoning behind our mackerel for instance. At first, guests were quite sceptical, looking down on this dish. And yet it has remained on the menu and has been a great success so far. Guests have become accustomed to it, proving we can change habits just like we can our dishes”.

Creation at heart

Of course, there is tremendous pressure to please 50 demanding guests every day, to continuously create new dishes, to offer unexpected combinations and consistently achieve excellence, but Linh Nguyen knows how important it is to be able to let go and take all the time needed to achieve the desired result. “Every morning, I ask myself what we can do better. Doubting, trying again and again, constantly questioning yourself is key.” Like an artist, Linh knows that there are days when nothing goes as planned. Her driving force undoubtedly is passion. At Le Gabriel, she is in charge of creations, her partner Maxime Vaillant concentrates on execution and service, and in the manner of a conductor, Chef Jérôme Banctel supervises the whole ensemble.

Linh’s cuisine is mostly French, with a few Asian inspirations. Produce is what sets the tone. And her creative process draws directly from exchanges with the various producers selected by the chef. Their advice directly feeds her creativity. “I always try to remain open to the suggestions and recommendations of our market gardeners, fishmongers, butchers, etc. We have amazing products that need to be sublimated with the right condiments, sauces, cooking methods and proportions. A dish is always changing, ephemeral and unique. It is an exciting challenge to constantly reinvent our recipes with rabbit, oyster mushrooms, quail, whiting or carrots.”

Reduced constraints

For Le Gabriel, the health crisis and the closure of the establishment were an opportunity to carry out a range of adjustments. Chef Jérôme Banctel was able to adapt and develop his restaurant to preserve stability within his team. Now the restaurant closes not only at weekends but also for a week in winter and summer, offering its young, motivated and committed teams a better quality of life than most establishments in the industry. And a soft and nuanced transition for everyone. Linh Nguyen’s job was also adapted to comply with her new status as a young mother: “I am officially a creation sous-chef, which means that I am not in charge of the execution in the kitchen, I don’t deal with the rush of service and, above all, I no longer work in the evenings. This was a strict condition for my return, so I could see my daughter in the evenings and on weekends”.

At Le Gabriel, the dialogue is always open. And whilst instructions remain strict, and a rigorous organisation is key to its smooth operation, everyone matters equally in the kitchen, and no one raises their voice. It is imperative that we move forward together in a healthy atmosphere, listening to those who prepare and serve the dishes. The twenty or so members of Le Gabriel’s brigade, who share the kitchen with the team of the hotel’s other restaurant, La Pagode, are united around common values: mutual aid, honesty, loyalty and unity, and the core belief that there is undeniably strength in number. “We all enjoy a certain amount of autonomy but the hierarchy is respected at all levels. We help each other grow with the sole aim of pleasing our guests. My role is to create, but also to teach younger team members the basics: proper dress, mutual respect and punctuality. It seems obvious, yet many newcomers in our industry are surprised when they discover the other side of the coin, the pressure, the amount of work required to sustain excellence. They have their own demands before they even start. I truly believe that the level of the new generation will be the main issue for the fine-dining establishments of tomorrow.”

Essential balance

Of course, gastronomy trades require complete commitment, in time, energy, patience and self-sacrifice. You must be passionate to have a career in this industry. However, “cooking should never be the only thing in your life. Creativity needs to be nurtured”. Work-life balance is essential. Not only does Linh Nguyen want to see her 10-month-old daughter grow up, but she continues to take an interest in photography, her other passion. And although she no longer attends her Monday photography classes, she can rely on a sharp eye in her job. Moreover, when Chef Jérôme Banctel asked for help from his team for his book (published by Flammarion at the end of 2019 and winner of the Champagne Collet Culinary Book Prize), Linh naturally took charge of the artistic direction and worked at length with photographer Richard Haughton. Once more, the team has demonstrated great solidarity, commitment and pleasure in working together towards a common goal. Yesterday to publish such an ambitious book, today to offer guests the very best of gastronomy, and tomorrow – maybe – to claim that long awaited third star? History is in the making, because there is undeniably strength in number. “Let’s take advantage of the present and do everything we can, starting today.”