THE MAGAZINE 
After Brussels and Munich, Les Grandes Tables du Monde chose Lyon for the third edition of Les Rencontres. A return to France that was far from incidental: here, gastronomy is rooted in history, in houses, in a way of hosting that continues to shape the profession.
At Abbaye Paul Bocuse, the opening dinner set the tone. Around Gilles Reinhardt and Olivier Couvin for Paul Bocuse**, Emmanuel Renaut of Flocons de Sel***, Franck Derouet of Le Clos des Sens*** and Christophe Roure of Le Neuvième Art**, the evening brought together distinct voices of contemporary French gastronomy. Chefs cooked side by side, teams met, tables lingered, Les Rencontres first took shape as a moment of taste and community.
The following morning, at the InterContinental Lyon – Hôtel-Dieu, the conversations unfolded under the moderation of Louise Petitrenaud. The roundtable “Set menu or freedom of choice” addressed a central question: what do today’s guests really expect? Amid evolving formats and new expectations around pace, clarity, and experience, the discussion revealed a deeper shift in the relationship to dining, explored through the perspectives of Nicolas Masse, chef of La Grand’Vigne, Hélène Binet, founder of Un Œil en Salle and Julien Fouin from Service Compris.
The subsequent talks broadened the scope. Mathieu Chapel, artisanal fisherman, questioned the role of gastronomy in preserving marine ecosystems and the need for greater pedagogy around sourcing. Philosopher Fabrice Midal offered a more introspective angle, exploring the distinction between excellence and performance, and the meaning of doing things well. Enrico Molino, founder of Difference Coffee, reminded us that the experience extends to the very last sip, with specialty coffee as a final signature.
At lunch, Marcel Ravin and the teams of Le Grand Réfectoire carried this momentum forward in the same spirit of sharing.
In Lyon, Les Grandes Tables du Monde reaffirmed its dual nature: a community in action, and a space for reflection where the future of gastronomy is collectively shaped.
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