Three stars for Le Clos des Sens and the restaurant Le Mirazur

Three stars for Le Clos des Sens and the restaurant Le Mirazur

Three stars
for Le Clos des Sens et the restaurant Le Mirazur

Meeting with Laurent Petit and Mauro Colagreco, the new three-star chefs.

LE CLOS DES SENS

Martine et Laurent Petit,
ANNECY, FRANCE

Does this third star marks the fulfilment of a long quest?
– It marks the fulfilment of a journey and an evolution, the result of an adventure launched in July 1992, although initially Michelin stars weren’t a goal of ours. We were interested in building a nice business. This third star is the accomplishment of my life and my career.

What do you mean when you say you want to give a responsible meaning to your third star?
– This third star is the reflection of farmers’ common sense and civility, and goes well beyond gastronomy. I’m very proud to have seduced the inspectors with my cuisine and its environment. My goal is to remain simple, both in sourcing my ingredients and interpreting my recipes. This third star is exempt from any demonstration or gastronomic codes; it is democratic.

Could you tell us more about your locavorous philosophy and your permaculture garden?
– It took a lot of work to create its structure but I’m lucky to have my talented gardener Lionel Perron by my side. The goal with this permaculture garden was to get back to basics: learning how to grow, pick, peel, and passing on that knowledge. Indeed, we are about thirty collaborators for an average age of 25. The garden plays a genuine educational function. In a way, I’m a “courier”. Wisdom and common sense are my hallmarks.

A signature dish?
– Green cabbage millefeuille, smoked fera, autumn fera eggs. Very complex work upstream for a very simple dish down the line. You have an inverted puff pastry covered with tarama cooked in lemon juice, a millefeuille of blanched and burnt cabbage leaves, and smoked fera. The pie is served lukewarm with a broth of smoked fera whisked with butter.

RESTAURANT LE MIRAZUR

Mauro Colagreco,
MENTON, FRANCE

You are the first foreign chef to receive this prestigious distinction, how do you feel?
– It’s a great honour, and a great responsibility too. I am very proud and grateful to the Michelin Guide for this award. It is proof that gastronomy has no border.

Does this third star marks the fulfilment of a long quest?
– More than a quest, it is a long, rich and exciting journey, and it’s far from over!

You will reopen the Mirazur in early March, what’s planned to enrich your customers’ experience?
– Our guests will discover further the Mirazur and its soul, step by step, in a gastronomic journey through local flavours. We open our doors, our home, a place for sharing, beauty, and love for Nature.

A signature dish?
– Crapaudine beetroot, cooked in a salt crust, and served with a caviar sauce. An oxymoron, a mix of so-called poor and rich produces. Once again, we play on an ephemeral border line.

Tribute to Andrew Fairlie

Tribute to Andrew Fairlie

Tribute to Andrew Fairlie

We are deeply sorry to announce that our member Andrew Fairlie has passed away at the age of 55 on January 22 2019. Andrew had been ill for several years.

Andrew has joined our association in 2017. His restaurant was located in Scotland in the heart of the Gleneagles Hotel famous for its golf course. Opened in 2001, the restaurant reached 1 Michelin star a year after in 2002, and two stars in 2006.

Born in Scotland in the town of Perth, Andrew always wanted to return to his home. Deeply interested by cooking, he won the first Roux Scholarship to be awarded in 2000. He did influential internship with Michel Guérard at Les Prés d’Eugénie and at l’Hotel de Crillon. His cooking was therefore inspired by French cooking classics. But he also wanted to showcase the best ingredients sourced in Scotland. He was also a great restaurateur taking great care of the comfort and happiness of his customers. In 2005, he cooked of the G8 heads of State who held meeting at the Gleneagles Hotel.

Our President David Sinapian and our board members are expressing their condolences to his partner Kate, his daughters Ilona and Leah, and his step-daughters Kittie and Rosie, to his staff, to his managing director Dale Dewsbury and to his head chef Stephen McLaughlin.

Launch of 2019 guide : the new faces of the association

Launch of 2019 guide : the new faces of the association

Launch of 2019 guide :
the new faces of  the association

The organisation Les Grandes Tables Du Monde gathered in Paris on January 21st to celebrate the launch of its 2019 guide, which coincides with the 65th birthday of this prestigious circle. President David Sinapian reiterated the association’s on-going commitments and unveiled the new members – 13 this year – who will complement our great contemporary gastronomic community.

AN ASSOCIATION BASED ON BELIEFS

Les Grandes Tables du Monde have started off the year surrounded with members restaurateurs to celebrate 65 years of excellence, vision and ever-renewed commitments. “Our association is 65 years old, but in just a few years, it has made giant leaps forward. Carried by our members’ enthusiasm, aware of our heritage and the unique position we occupy in the world’s culinary landscape, we are now more visible, more influent, and more in sync with the sector’s on-going developments”, explains David Sinapian.

This is why the association is gathering today around the most essential matter, which conveys a message of positive evolution in our profession: the recognition of women in the gastronomy industry. Owners, chefs, managers and sommeliers, they’re all involved, along with their male counterparts, in defining what makes a Grande Table. According to Nicolas Chatenier, the organisation’s General Delegate: “The goal isn’t to set women

against men, but to allow women to grow in their rightful place and to empower them”. The association aims to promote and achieve – in the short term – gender equality in its member establishments, and more broadly the entire sector.

Its first initiative to this end occurred in October 2018 with the completion of a global survey to highlight the challenges and goals of a more inclusive gastronomy. While the survey indicated a change of attitudes to some extent, it however underlined issues to be addressed and steps to be taken to boost the insertion of women in our sector. As announced during its Annual Conference in Marrakech, Les Grandes Tables du Monde has delivered its promises. The names of women owners are now featured in its new 2019 guide.

In 2019, the association will also inaugurate a new program which aims to highlight 12 women, identified within its members’ teams, and who attest to their successful careers in this profession. In the framework of this Prominent Women program, each of the selected professionals will be highlighted on Les Grandes Tables du Monde’s website, social media and mainstream media. According to Claire Sonnet, its 2019 Ambassador and new restaurant manager at the restaurant Louis XV at the Hotel de Paris : “In our hospitality industry, there is a place for each man, but also and in particular, there is a veritable place for each woman. I have no doubt this initiative will contribute to highlight their success.”

This association’s ambition is clear: the more these women are identified, known, and promoted, the more likely other women will follow these inspiring role models and join these professions. These women will all gather during the next Annual Conference in October 2019.

13 NEW MEMBERS

Another addition to our 2019 guide, and not the least, 13 new members are joining the international circle this year: 8 1⁄2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Atelier Crenn, Bord du lac, La Grenouillère, La Marine, Nuance, Caprice, Restaurant L’Atelier, Daní Maison, Kei, Quadri, Ristorante Duomo, and Villa René Lalique.

These worthy additions reinstate the association’s ambitions: champion a rich, festive, and most importantly generous contemporary gastronomy. Indeed, the common thread between these 13 addresses located all around the globe is indeed their
ambition, and the devotion of these professional women and men (cooks, sommeliers, maîtres d’hôtel…) to offer a unique gastronomic experience driven by their unmitigated desire to please and delight their guests.

WOMEN AND GASTRONOMY

WOMEN AND GASTRONOMY

WOMEN AND GASTRONOMY

The organization Les Grandes Tables Du Monde presents for the first time the results of a survey conducted among its members, supported by long-lasting partner S.Pellegrino.

64th Congress of Les Grandes Tables du Monde – Four Seasons – MarrakeSh ©Kris Maccotta

Founded in 1954, Les Grandes Tables du Monde is determined to remain in sync with the evolution of our society. Aware of ongoing developments, it wishes to commit to improving women’s place in gastronomy and promote, in the short term, gender equality within member restaurants of the organization, and more broadly in the whole sector.

To initiate the debate and promote discussions, the organization presented during its 64th Congress a first global study[1] aimed at identifying the challenges and necessary objectives for a more inclusive gastronomy sector. While the study reveals a positive change in attitude, it also highlights problems, which still need to be resolved, and highlights possible measures intended to accelerate the enhancement of women’s role in this field.

In occasion of the debut of such an important topic during its 64th Congress, Les Grandes Tables du Monde is sustained by S.Pellegrino, a long-lasting partner, committed to support the gastronomy community and the greatest chefs in the world, in order for them to express their thoughts and visions and lead a meaningful evolution of this field. Together with Les Grandes Tables du Monde, indeed S.Pellegrino acknowledges that inclusion – of which gender equality is a fundamental part – needs to be and remain high in the agenda of such events, where luminary chefs gather and have the opportunity to discuss and aim for a positive change.

“The role of women makes sense, but the sector’s reaction doesn’t necessarily”, says Nicolas Chatenier, Managing Director of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. While the respondents acknowledge and are very happy to see a growing number of women join the sector (20% of surveyed restaurants in fact indicate they wish to hire more women in the coming years), the data gathered by the study shows this trend needs to intensify in the kitchen. Women are still too often “confined” to waiting and floor positions; on average, there are 8 women for 12 men on the floor, and only 3 women for 14 men in the kitchen.

Even more explicit: women are less likely to reach high-responsibility positions such as headwaiter, chef de partie or second-in-command.

And like in many other sectors, the issue of pay equality remains taboo. Only 41% of the establishments surveyed replied to this question, and the collected answers point towards a salary gap of 9.5% in favor of men.

Finally, prejudices regarding maternity and family life remain one of the main obstacles to women’s progression in the sector. 60% of employers even point to this subject as the main constraint in terms of career growth for their female employees. High work intensity and long hours are often considered incompatible with labor flexibility in this field. While notable progress has been made (74% of employers have implemented flexibility measures (time-sharing, parental leave…), one of the interviewees said the following: “We work 13 to 14 hours a day. This means no time for children, no emotional connections, only work, work, work; so at some point, you are faced with difficult decisions”.

As for the women surveyed, the conclusion was clear and uniformly shared: women who work in this environment must be prepared to toughen up if they want to build a career. As a woman explained: “If you’re able to hold your position and assert yourself, you won’t have any trouble in this profession, but you need to have a strong shell”. There is a delicate balance between remaining oneself and adopting attributes perceived as male in order to be respected.

Anne-Sophie Pic ©Kris Maccotta

Encourage and speed up the presence of women in these professions

According to Nicolas Chatenier, Managing Director of the organization: “The question of women in gastronomy is an absolutely key subject, which carries a positive message about the evolution in our field. The goal here isn’t to oppose men and women, something our respondents are careful enough not to do, but to allow women to grow in their rightful place and strengthen their power of action”. That’s why Les Grandes Tables Du Monde has decided to commit around 3 pillars for improvement.

  • Equal treatment

Overcoming prejudices and moving towards a more open mindset must absolutely involve all stakeholders. The roles played by chefs, restaurateurs, managers and the organization itself are essential: changes will be achieved by raising awareness, discussing and reflecting on a new strategy of inclusion.

To achieve and promote equal treatment, working conditions, pay and career opportunities for women in this field, the whole sector must come together. To do so, Les Grandes Tables du Monde already suggests 3 actions:

  1. Mention, as soon as the next guide is released, the names of women holding decision-making positions in member restaurants of the organization.
  2. Conduct a yearly survey to monitor and follow the developments in the sector.
  3. Regularly address these issues through various communication means (Les Grandes Tables du Monde website, media interviews, etc.).

Nicolas Chatenier & Clément Vachon, S. Pellegrino ©Kris Maccotta

  • Women role models 

The study’s interviewees all underlined the importance of “positive role models”: Anne-Sophie Pic, Hélène Darroze, Christelle Brua, Estelle Touzet… All inspiring women who have led the way for several generations. Highlighting their remarkable careers is therefore necessary to spark new vocations, but above all to remind that women have every right, just like men, to work in these positions. Food critics, the media, but also organizations, awards and cooking competitions have to commit to grant balanced opportunities to both genders.

That’s why the organization commits to communicating about these talented women in all its coming announcements, but above all to involving them in all the actions and events Les Grandes Tables Du Monde takes part in.

  • More flexibility with regard to working hours

The goal here is to adapt working hours by adding more flexibility. Working in split shifts, which is still in effect in most establishments, is considered a genuine obstacle to family life, both for men and women. The organization, along with its members, wishes to imagine alternative work organizations: shift work, parental leave, etc. to create a caring working environment for all its stakeholders.

In support of these initiatives, the organization Les Grandes Tables du Monde invited influential women, chefs, directors and journalists to its annual congress, as well as men expert in their field. Reflecting together and involving the entire profession is how new forms of action will arise to realize these commitments. Step assessments must be planned to monitor the progress of these policies.

Maguy Le Coze & Maryse Trama ©Kris Maccotta

[1] Study conducted in September 2018 by the FM Research Institute and commissioned by Les Grandes Tables du Monde and S. Pellegrino, involving 174 members and 17 women of the organization Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

The price 2018

The price 2018

2018 Prizes

Recognizing gastronomic excellence
Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association announces its 2018 winners in Marrakech

After last year’s event in the bustle of New York City, Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association celebrated haute cuisine at their 64th annual conference in Marrakech. In the heart of the Medina, and against the backdrop of Le Musée des Confluences, the association revealed the list of the 2018 winners of its awards for excellence:

Paul Pairet for Ultra Violet
Restaurateur of the Year Prize

Christelle Brua at Le Pré Catelan
Valrhona Prize for the World’s Best Restaurant Pastry Chef

Denis Courtiade at the Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée
Mauviel 1830 Prize for the World’s Best Dining Room Manager

Giorgio Pinchiorri at L’Enoteca Pinchiorri
Chapoutier Prize for Best Restaurant Sommelier from Les Grandes Tables du Monde

“These awards are primarily intended to celebrate the gastronomic experience as a collective effort. We honor the profession’s entire ecosystem, a family of talented men and women wholly devoted to their customers’ pleasure and well-being, as well as their own,” explains David Sinapian, Chairman of the Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association.

The Board of Directors has chosen to honor these four great names, each with an extraordinary career, who have worked collectively to ceaselessly invent new forms of excellence and creativity, thereby penning the new chapters in the ever-evolving story of contemporary gastronomy.

“These awards are important to us because they reflect our vision of professionalism, experience, and savoir-faire, but also of openness, contemporary spirit, and the courage to challenge the status quo. Each recipient this year has demonstrated these qualities in his or her work,” concludes Nicolas Chatenier, Chief Representative of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association.

For Les Grandes Tables du Monde, culinary tradition is expressed in the present: It is a living, changing force that thrives on – and improves with – keen and curious examination by innovative minds. The 2018 winners embody this perspective.

Winner of the 2018 Restaurateur of the Year Prize

Paul Pairet – Ultraviolet
Chine

As David Sinapian reminds us, “You go to a restaurant to eat well, but you go to a Grande Table for a profound emotional encounter.” And among the chefs who succeed in turning a meal into complete sensory experience, Paul Pairet is at once pioneer and prestidigitator.

In Shanghai, at Ultra Violet, he offers an immersive, imaginative, and multifaceted dining moment Sound, sight, setting, smells: The senses are stimulated, heightened, heated, serving the single cause that is the core of his practice: cooking. Because while the man may be the director of a dramatic experience, he remains first and foremost a French chef, solidly and deeply rooted in a culinary culture nurtured in his beloved Languedoc. Enlightened by innovation, Paul Pairet is a man of culinary technique, ever striving to better master taste, a tenacious professional who goes to great lengths to execute the dishes he sees and tastes in his imagination. It is this devotion, audacity, and persuasiveness that make him not just a great chef, but an incredible innovator.

“We see Paul’s receiving this award as both legitimate and logical for, applying the principle of comprehensive, global experience, he exactly represents those things that make a great restaurateur.” Nicolas Chatenier, Chief Representative, Les Grandes Tables du Monde

Alexandre Leanza, Global Image Parternships Director Moët Hennessy, Paul Pairet, David Sinapian. ©Delight

Winner of the 2018 Valrhona Prize for the World’s Best Restaurant Pastry Chef

Christelle Brua
France

Price valrhona – Christelle Brua et Zeyneb Lara ©Delight

                   Though she had planned to study literature, Christelle Brua now crafts her most exceptional works in edible form. Trained as a pastry chef at Jean-Georges Klein’s L’Arnsbourg, she joined the team at Le Pré Catelan in 2003 as pastry chef, where she helped the establishment earn its third Michelin star in 2007, alongside Frédéric Anton.

Standing at the industry’s leading edge (she is one of the first women to achieve such a position), the chef presents meticulously calibrated, direct, artifice-free creations in a quest to preserve and showcase the most essential of elements: taste. Her favorite dessert is the perfect example, a jewel of purity and precision: apple in sugar soufflé, caramel ice cream, cider and sizzling sugar. Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association, in partnership with Valrhona, is proud to honor this indispensable talent in French pastry. The harmonious and complementary twosome formed by Christelle Brua and Frédéric Anton is, in this respect, truly representative of what the association promotes with vigor: a collective oeuvre.

“Christelle Brua has managed to create a powerful identity that stands out from among thousands, one that now inspires an entire generation of chefs.” David Sinapian, Chairman, Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association

Winner of the 2018 Mauviel 1830 Prize for the World’s Best Dining Room Manager

Denis Courtiade
France

               With this award, Les Grandes Tables du Monde and Mauviel 1830 wanted to recognize more than a career: They sought to honor a lifetime of commitment. Denis Courtiade, the faithful cohort of Alain Ducasse, has impressed and trained generations of young people destined for dining room service, and will continue his legacy for years to come.

An irreplaceable figure in dining service at the Plaza Athénée, Denis, by turns roguish and sedate, has devoted a great deal of energy to modernizing the institution’s service to align it with today’s trends. His experienced eye, obsession with detail, and playful approach to the profession have helped him forge a benevolent, inclusive relationship with his clients, thereby bridging the distance sometimes created by the gilded, gleaming, glittering décor of the dining room at the Plaza Athénée.

A master of artful balance, ever poised to anticipate requests or situations, he works alongside Chef Romain Meder to offer an experience of luxurious gourmandise, that is nevertheless almost casual, at one of Paris’ greatest luxury establishments. He is both a modernizer and a trainer and has been involved for several years in creating “Ô Service – des Talents de Demain,” an association promoting the dining service trades and supporting up-and-coming professionals in the realm. He is paving the way to the future of dining room service and, for this reason, is wholly deserving of this award.

“Denis is a man who fervently defends his profession and whose people-centered values ​​set the example for future generations. Sharing, teaching, and excellence: These are the foundations of the restaurant service professions, fundamentals that I share with my staff on a daily basis. It is an honor for me to present him with this award.” Valérie Le Guern Gilbert, President, Mauviel 1830.

Pruice mauviel 1830-Serge Schaal, Valérie Le Guern Gilbert, Denis Courtiade ©Delight

Winner of the 2018 M. Chapoutier Prize for Best Restaurant Sommelier from Les Grandes Tables du Monde

Giorgio Pinchiorri
Italie

 Antonio Santini, Annie Féolde, Mathilde Chapoutier, David Sinapian ©Delight

               In introducing its Best Restaurant Sommelier Award, in collaboration with Maison M. Chapoutier, Les Grandes Tables du Monde Association pulls no punches and honors a world-renowned professional: Giorgio Pinchiorri. At the age of 74, and after more than 50 years of labor, research, and commitment, his wine cellar, L’Enoteca Pinchiorri, is surely one of, if not the, finest in the world. This timeless place is as precious as the bottles it shelters.

Here, in a veritable showcase of Italian viticultural excellence, one also finds the best French wines: Cros Parantoux by the late Henri Jayer, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (in magnum), all the greats are represented here, from the most-celebrated years to the least-known bottlings. To this are added unfailing attention to detail, presentation, and art de vivre, making it a true temple to wine. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, is the role played by his wife, Annie Féolde, who, by pairing dishes with her husband’s wines, created a unique restaurant that has boasted three Michelin stars since 1993. This formidable duo is one of the most beautiful demonstrations of the synergistic work the association has long venerated.

“The core of the M. Chapoutier philosophy is the perfect pairing of food and wine. This reciprocal accord is the source of exquisite emotions; this balanced relationship, these harmonies finding infinite expression, are representative of our values. Both Giorgio and his wife achieve this with incredible exactitude and, for our Maison, they were clearly the natural recipients of the Best Restaurant Sommelier prize from Les Grandes Tables du Monde.” — Mathilde Chapoutier

Marrakech: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Marrakech is a treasure trove of history and culture and, more importantly, a crossroad of civilizations, making it the association’s ideal playground, fertile ground for planting the new ideas and reaping the new experiences that define excellence in today’s haute cuisine. This was made manifest in the fabulous gala dinner crafted by two chefs, both association members, Yannick Alleno and Jerome Videau. Through their creations, they perfectly illustrated the dialogue between tradition and innovation that the association so values. Pumpkin maasla and Medjool dates, Blue Oualidia lobster with cumin and candied lemon, Royal sea bream tagine with purple olives: With their savoir-faire, virtuosity, and gastronomic inquisitiveness, the chefs brilliantly translated the country’s culinary terroir and history.

The great restaurant

The great restaurant

The great restaurant

By Nicolas Chatenier

 

                    The cuisine revolution took the world by surprise when it began fifteen years ago. A passion for celebrity chefs, the precise selection of ingredients, the emergence of a foodie culture, the rediscovered value of terroir, and the upsurge of organic cultivation, to name just a few of its aspects. Eating has progressively become a cultural act, both for reasons linked with the latent narcissism of a generation immersed in social media, and other reasons with their roots in a political and dissenting attitude that is about eating better, more naturally and more healthily, and adopting a more ethical approach to agriculture.

This quest for a more meaningful interpretation of food is every bit as remarkable as the emerging passion for cooking. Every restaurant format has played its part on this new world stage as it has developed.
We have therefore seen the combined, parallel and simultaneous emergence of all types of restaurant service. Along with all the major trends and – often – confusions that can sometimes make us smile, like Asian street vendors being awarded Michelin stars. That said, each type of restaurant, from the most established to the most short-lived pop-up has managed to hold its own.
For proof of that, we need look no further than the success of food trucks in the USA, which have given many chefs the opportunity to get started, or the multiplicity of London pop-ups that have allowed dozens of professionals to get a foot on the career ladder. Within this vibrant, spirited and sometimes deafening concert, one leading player remains, despite being heckled by the changes now underway. I am talking here about the top-class fine dining restaurant.

This important player really emerged before the Second World War, thanks to the technical contribution made by Chef Escoffier, the appearance of Michelin stars in 1931 and the acclaim for La Mère Brazier, whose owner/chef Eugénie Brazier was the first to run two 3-star restaurants. This format was to assume crucial importance in the immediate post-war years. Wartime shortages and rationing gave way to 30 years of strong economic growth (Les Trente Glorieuses) and a period of abundance. Dumaine in Saulieu, Point in Vienne and Pic in Valence formed a triumvirate that headed the fine dining restaurant scene outside the capital. They complemented Parisian star establishments, such as Raymond Oliver’s Grand Véfour, Louis Vaudable’s Maxim’s and Lucas-Carton. Not to overlook the magic created by René Lasserre and André Terrail at La Tour d’Argent.

As a welcome coincidence, it was during these years – 1954 to be precise – that the association known as Traditions et Qualité was formed. It was this association that decades later would become today’s Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

The great restaurants of that time embraced the same principles we still recognise today. It was simply less culinary and more celebratory. It was a place designed for fun and to be seen in while enjoying simple dishes. Salads and modest dressings still appeared on these menus.

Beginning in the 1960s, a new generation of chefs would change the status quo and reinvent this restaurant model. Their names were Bocuse, Guérard, Troisgros and Senderens, and they effectively reinvented this profession.
Firstly, they became owners of their own restaurants, which allowed them to make their own decisions and promote themselves. They were also professionals in communication. Next, they redesigned cuisine itself, freeing it from the diktats set by Escoffier half a century earlier. They introduced a new lightness to reveal and enhance the freshness of their ingredients.

As well as being a display of social standing, the restaurant now offered an additional dimension: a strong culinary experience created out of discovery and innovation. Personal styles were asserted. It became fashionable to take advantage of the rise of private motoring to ‘make a trip’ using the Michelin guide, and visit these restaurants, each with their own distinct personality in which exceptional chefs with a gift and enthusiasm for communication expressed their multiple talents.

One important clarification: all of this happened in France from the 1960s onwards. Nowhere else. It is incontrovertible that we gave birth to the fine dining restaurant; a trend that the French would effectively export to Belgium, Switzerland and Italy with Gualtiero Marchesi, and then on into Spain with chefs such as Pedro Sujana d’Akelare and Martin Berasategui.

 

It was at this time that the characteristic features of the fine dining restaurant would emerge: its decorative style, personal welcome, exceptional cuisine crafted from the freshest and most beautiful produce, the best wines and elegant, considerate front-of-house service. The end result was structured around cuisine, service and wines to ensure that diners enjoyed every dimension of the fine dining experience.

The formula seemed simple, but there can be no doubt that its consistent and regular execution was, and remains, extremely difficult. But the French achieved it. And they had a substantial head start.

While restaurants of every size and type made amazing progress during the cuisine years, we might justifiably ask ourselves what the place of the great fine dining restaurant is today. Expensive, lengthy and full of codes and manners, is it really a dinosaur destined for extinction over the longer or shorter term ? Or does it still have a brilliant future ahead of it, given the media exposure enjoyed by today’s chefs ?

At Les Grandes Tables du Monde, we believe that this format – atypical and elitist as it intrinsically is by nature – is an essential component of global cuisine. We would go so far as to say that behind the decorum that some love to criticise lies an essential component of any culinary culture. Our belief is that without the great restaurants of the world, we would have neither a vibrant cuisine nor a living culinary culture.

They act simultaneously as experimental living laboratories and conservators of traditional practices and skills. Innovation and tradition. The formula is understood, but applies particularly to the world of fine dining. Culinary innovation is driven by the kitchens of the world’s great restaurants. It is here that new approaches are conceived and created, and it is where new ingredients are tested. Chefs have always understood the need to coach producers to improve ingredients. For example, the great French chef Jean-Louis Palladin – now sadly departed – introduced the principles of better fishing and farming to the East Coast of the United States. He applied his evangelistic determination to improve local production. And we find the same in all those countries that have allowed chefs to assume a role of prime importance. Spanish agriculture owes much to the generation of culinary pioneers in the region around San Sebastian. Their success energised and publicised some of Spain’s best local artisan produce. The twin roles of talent spotter and sounding board are essential in the world of fine dining. They directly influence the vitality of cuisine. There is no shortage of examples that demonstrate how in 1980s Italy or, more recently, in Peru during the last decade, it has been the chefs who promote iconic recipes and energise the production of ingredients.

So from the point of view of tradition, fine dining has not lost its important role. But it is also the sum of expertise accumulated from generation to generation. Nevertheless, this body of expertise must be revisited and carefully selected, but its core has no need to evolve, since it remains current and relevant. Having made our selection, we must measure the essential value of this body of techniques, attitudes and practices that makes fine dining a relevant and ongoing expertise and personal skill. This is the reason why we can talk in terms of a French way of exercising the professions of hospitality and cuisine. This French body of knowledge has spread throughout the world thanks to the virtues of training and the personal transfer of skills. It defines what unites Les Grandes Tables du Monde today.

Ultimately, fine dining acquires its cachet and relevance through one last strength which we see as essential. It is the final element that allows us to confirm the crucial role played by the great restaurants of the world today. Since the digital revolution began 15 years ago, we have been living in a progressively more digital world. The GAFA have been joined by the NATU, such that many of our everyday needs are now met by online digital platforms. Finding accommodation, travel and eating are all greatly facilitated by the digital revolution, which has applied technology perfectly in ways that make everyday life smoother and easier. But to the detriment of one essential element: the human touch. The power of the digital world has meant that the human touch has disappeared from many processes. In a few cases, people are just the final link in the service delivery chain. The person who hands you the package you ordered from Amazon, your Uber driver or the receptionist in the hotel you booked through booking.com. Without wishing to denigrate the convenience delivered by these new stakeholders, it is nevertheless valid to regret the very real reduction in the need for personal service that comes with them.

This is where the great restaurants of the world retain the lead, because no part of the service they deliver can be subject to this process. People, their appearance, their hands, their actions and their skills are indispensable and essential to ‘producing’ the fine dining experience. To us, it is obvious that this human element of fine dining explains its ongoing popularity and appeal. At Les Grandes Tables du Monde, we are proud of that, and we insist upon it.

Since its inception at the beginning of the 20th century, and its acclaim in the 1960s and 70s, the fine dining restaurant deserves, now more than ever, to be central to our conversations, since it determines our relationship with food and cuisine. It is the centrepiece of the table. A sharing table, of course.